On the Road to Metzontla los Reyes.
Driving from Tehuacán, Puebla, to the small town of Metzontla los Reyes takes you through a beautiful desert drive on a well paved road for about 35 kilometers. Then a turn onto dirt and gravel through more cactus for maybe another 15 kilometers, eventually you come into Metzontla los Reyes.
On the drive, there are remnants of the flourishing barro bruñido trade that once existed, and a few artisanos who are still plying their wares. One such person is Elsa Balderas, a young woman with a beaming smile, a firm handshake and a warm, welcoming demeanor. The handshake may have its firm feel on account of Elsa working with clay at her grandmother’s feet since the age of six. Today, she and grandmother still work the barro.
We first learned of Elsa’s work when visiting the Instituto de Artesanías e Industrias Populares de Puebla back in 2010. We were looking through the Institutes collection of works they had on display which they felt were representative of Puebla’s rich history, and the few pieces of barro bruñido were simply captivating. We knew we would find one if these artisanos and try to promote them at Manos. Elsa proved easier to locate than the other barro artisano, he was deep in the countryside and almost impossible to contact. Elsa wasn’t easy, but compared to the other gentleman, we managed to visit her in her home back in the mountains of Southern Puebla.
Elsa and her Grandmother.
The barro bruñido itself is an amazing texture, almost flesh like in its appearance, the surface smooth and shiny yet consisting of waves and undulations, similar to the kinds found in the human form. Because all the barro made is done by hand, formed and shaped in such a manner that allows for, even embraces imperfections. Once shaped into its final form and allowed to dry, the fires are stoked-up and the bisque is heated and hardened.
The next step is the bruñido, or burnishing. A loose mixture of clay is laid onto the fired earthenware then rubbed or burnished with a small stone, the entire piece, over and over again until the piece achieves its final sheen. The results are seen when you look closely at the finished surface, stroke marks visible. After hours of burnishing, the final treatment is rubbing a soft cloth ladened with bee’s wax.
We do have a small collection of Elsa’s work and hope to have more of these beautiful examples of ancient barro bruñido. Difficulties in shipping and Elsa’s remote location are two of the obstacles we are facing, but the beauty of the barro is enough motivation to find a solution. As with all of our artisanos, we do not offer internet sales, however we can provide you more detailed information and images if you are interested. Please contact us through our contact page for further information.
